Debt Consolidation

    Debt consolidation mortgages in Canada

    Use the equity in your home to pay out credit cards and loans, so one mortgage payment replaces several. Here's how it works, what it costs, and when it doesn't make sense.

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    How does consolidating debt into a mortgage work?

    You refinance your home for more than you currently owe, and the extra money pays off your credit cards, car loan or line of credit. Those debts disappear and you're left with one mortgage payment, usually at a far lower rate than unsecured credit.

    The catch: the debt is now secured by your home, and if you stretch it over a long amortization you can pay more interest in total even though the monthly payment drops. It works when the equity is there, the penalty is manageable, and the cards stay at zero afterward. You can test your own numbers with our debt consolidation calculator.

    • Maximum refinance: 80% of your home's appraised value, including the debts you roll in.
    • You requalify at the stress test rate: the greater of your contract rate + 2% or 5.25%.
    • Breaking a fixed rate early costs the greater of three months' interest or the IRD.
    • Card and loan balances are paid out directly by the lawyer at closing.

    How it works, step by step

    A debt consolidation mortgage is really just a mortgage refinance with a specific purpose. Your existing mortgage gets paid out and replaced with a larger one. The difference goes to your creditors. Most people we talk to are carrying a mix: a couple of credit cards, a car loan, maybe a line of credit that crept up during a tough year.

    1. 1

      List every debt

      Write down each balance, rate and monthly payment for the credit cards, car loan and lines of credit you want to clear.

    2. 2

      Check your equity

      Your existing mortgage plus the debts and any costs you roll in should stay at or under 80% of your home's appraised value.

    3. 3

      Price the refinance

      Get your prepayment penalty from your lender and add appraisal and legal costs, then compare against the interest you'd stop paying.

    4. 4

      Apply and requalify

      Submit income and debt documents; the lender stress-tests the full new mortgage balance.

    5. 5

      Close and pay out the debts

      Your lawyer pays out the old mortgage and the listed debts directly from the new mortgage funds.

    Worked example: consolidating credit cards and a car loan

    The numbers below are illustrative. The rates are assumptions chosen to show the math, not current market rates or an offer. Payments use simple monthly compounding and are rounded.

    The household (example): a home appraised at $650,000 with a $400,000 mortgage at an assumed 4.5%, 22 years left on the amortization. They're carrying $28,000 on credit cards at 19.99% and $22,000 left on a car loan at 8.99% with four years to go.

    Monthly payments today: mortgage about $2,390, car loan about $547, and card minimums of roughly $840 (3% of the balance). That's about $3,777 a month. The cards alone cost close to $5,600 a year in interest, and the car loan another $2,000 or so.

    The refinance: a new mortgage of $454,000, which covers the $400,000 balance, the $50,000 of debt, and an assumed $4,000 for the penalty, appraisal and legal costs. That's about 70% of the home's value, well inside the 80% limit.

    Monthly payment after (example 4.5%, 25-year amortization): about $2,523, roughly $1,254 a month less than before. Annual interest on the $54,000 that was added drops to around $2,430 at the example rate.

    That looks great, and the cash-flow relief is real. Look at what happens over the long run, though. If that $54,000 rides along for the full 25 years, it costs roughly $36,000 in interest by the time it's paid off. Keep the amortization at the 22 years they already had left and the payment is about $2,712, still around $1,065 a month lower than today, with roughly $31,000 of interest on the added amount.

    The strongest version of this plan pays the debt off fast. If they put about $1,000 a month extra toward the mortgage (still less than they were paying the card companies and the car lender), the $54,000 is cleared in about five years with roughly $6,400 of interest. Same household, same rate, very different total cost. Most lenders allow annual prepayments, so this is something you can build into the plan from day one.

    What it costs to consolidate

    Because you're breaking your mortgage, the usual refinance costs apply. The big one is the prepayment penalty. On a fixed rate it's the greater of three months' interest or the interest rate differential (IRD), and the IRD can run into the thousands depending on how far rates have moved since you signed. On a variable rate it's usually three months' interest.

    • Prepayment penalty: ask your lender for a written quote before deciding
    • Appraisal: typically $300 to $500
    • Legal fees: typically $800 to $1,500
    • Discharge or reassignment fees charged by your current lender

    Timing matters. If your term is up within the next several months, consolidating at mortgage renewal can wipe out the penalty entirely, because there's nothing left to break. Some lenders also let you blend and extend, adding new money at a blended rate without a full penalty. It's worth asking.

    The trade-offs to weigh honestly

    Longer amortization, more total interest

    A lower payment often comes from spreading short-term debt over 25 years. Unless you pay it down faster, total interest on that debt can end up higher than if you'd cleared it in a few years.

    Running the cards back up

    This is the one that hurts most. If the cards fill up again, you're left with a bigger mortgage and the same card balances. Consider closing a card or two, or lowering the limits.

    Unsecured debt becomes secured

    A missed credit card payment hurts your credit. A missed mortgage payment puts your home at risk. Make sure the new payment is comfortable, not just lower.

    Less equity in reserve

    Borrowing against your home now leaves less room for a future renovation, an emergency or a move. Keep that in mind if you're close to the 80% limit.

    Who qualifies

    With a bank or credit union, you'll generally need enough equity to stay at or under 80% loan-to-value after the debts are added, income that supports the new payment at the stress test rate, and a credit history that's in reasonable shape. Paying off the cards actually helps the debt-service ratios, since those minimum payments drop out of the calculation.

    When equity or credit is tight

    • Alternative lenders. Some lenders look past late payments, a recent consumer proposal or income that's hard to document. Expect a higher rate and a lender fee, and treat it as a one- or two-year bridge while you rebuild credit.
    • A second mortgage. A separate loan registered behind your existing mortgage. Your first mortgage and its rate stay as they are, so there's no penalty to break it. Rates are higher and terms are short, so it's usually a stopgap until renewal.
    • A home equity line of credit. If you have room and want flexibility, a HELOC secured on your home can pay out the cards without touching your mortgage. The revolving part is capped at 65% of your home's value.
    • Wait for renewal. If you're within a few months of maturity, timing the consolidation to your renewal date avoids the penalty altogether.

    If you're self-employed, lenders will look at two years of tax returns and Notices of Assessment. Some lenders have programs that put more weight on business bank statements when you have a larger equity cushion.

    What it does to your credit

    Expect a small dip when the lender pulls your credit. Once the cards are paid to zero, your utilization falls, and that usually helps your score over the next few statement cycles. Keep the oldest card open with a zero balance if you can trust yourself with it; closing your oldest account can shorten your credit history. What you want to avoid is new balances creeping back on.

    Documents to have ready

    • Recent pay stubs and a letter of employment, or two years of T1 Generals and Notices of Assessment if self-employed
    • Your current mortgage statement and property tax bill
    • Recent statements for every debt you want paid out (cards, car loan, lines of credit)
    • Government-issued photo ID
    • Home insurance details and, for condos, recent strata or condo fee information

    Consolidating debt in your city

    Home values and typical equity positions vary a lot across the country, which changes how much room you have to work with. We have local guides for debt consolidation in Toronto, Calgary homeowners rolling debt into a mortgage and consolidation options in Vancouver, with more cities listed below.

    Frequently asked questions

    Straight answers to the questions homeowners ask us most about rolling debt into a mortgage.

    Can you consolidate debt into your mortgage in Canada?

    Yes, if you have enough equity. A refinance can go up to 80% of your home's appraised value, so your current mortgage plus the debt you're paying off (and any costs you roll in) has to fit under that limit. You also have to requalify for the full new balance under the stress test, which uses the greater of your contract rate plus 2% or 5.25%.

    Is it smart to roll credit card debt into a mortgage?

    It usually lowers your monthly payment and the rate you pay on that debt, but it isn't automatically cheaper over time. Stretching a card balance over a 25-year amortization can cost more total interest than paying it off in a few years. It works best when you keep the old payments going toward the mortgage and stop carrying balances on the cards.

    Does a debt consolidation mortgage hurt your credit score?

    There's a small, temporary dip from the lender's credit check. After that, paying cards down to zero usually lowers your credit utilization, which tends to help your score over the following months. The thing that does real damage is running the cards back up after they've been paid out.

    What if I don't have enough equity or my credit is bruised?

    You still have options. Alternative lenders may approve a consolidation refinance with weaker credit or harder-to-document income, usually at a higher rate and with a lender fee. Another route is a second mortgage registered behind your existing one, which leaves your first mortgage untouched. If your renewal is close, waiting a few months can also remove the prepayment penalty from the math.

    Should I use a HELOC instead of refinancing to consolidate debt?

    A HELOC can make sense if you want to pay the debt down quickly and keep your current mortgage rate. The revolving portion is capped at 65% of your home's value, and payments are often interest-only, so the balance won't shrink unless you pay more. A refinance builds the debt into a fixed payment schedule, which suits people who want structure.

    How long does a debt consolidation refinance take?

    Plan on two to four weeks from application to funding in most cases. The appraisal and your documents are usually what set the pace. At closing, the lawyer pays out the old mortgage and the debts you've listed directly, so the money doesn't pass through your account.

    Ready to clear the high-interest debt?

    Start your application and an agent will review your equity, your debts and the cost of refinancing before you commit to anything.

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